πŸ’° Debt Consolidation Β· Refinance

High-interest debt,
low-interest house.

If you're carrying $60k across credit cards at 22%, you're paying $1,100/month in interest alone. That same debt secured by your home costs $375/month. Same principal. Different math. We'll build the side-by-side and tell you which path β€” HELOC add-on or full refi β€” nets more.

  • βœ“ Break-even month on any mortgage penalty
  • βœ“ HELOC add-on if you don't want to break your mortgage
  • βœ“ Target-payoff schedule so you don't just stretch the debt

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$725

avg monthly cash flow freed on last 28 refis

22% β†’ 7.5%

typical APR drop on consolidated debt

4–6 yr

shaved off debt payoff timeline

6 signals this is the right move

If one of these is true for you, run the math

Credit card balances over $20k at 19–24% APR

Every $10k of CC debt at 22% costs $183/month in interest alone. Rolling to secured 7.5% debt drops that to $62/month. Compounds fast.

Line of credit over $30k at prime + 3%+

Unsecured LOCs are prime + 3–5% these days. Home equity is prime + 0.5. Same principal, less than half the interest.

HELOC balance approaching your limit

HELOCs demand-callable. If you're carrying a large balance you were meant to pay off, fold it into your mortgage before the lender re-margins you.

Renovation you'd otherwise put on CCs / LOC

Refi at renewal (T–120 days) is fee-free equity access up to 80% LTV. Costs ~7.5% vs 22% on CCs. Payback in months, not years.

Business needs cash injection

Home-secured business capital: 7.5–8.5%. Bank business LOC: 9–14%. Alt business lender: 18%+. Home equity wins on cost every time.

Divorce buyout / equalization payment

Court-ordered buyout with tight timeline. Refi to release the ex-spouse from title + provide the cash lump sum in one transaction.

The Two Paths

You don't always need a full refi

HELOC add-on

Fastest, cheapest path if your bank supports it. 5–10 business days to fund.

Pros

  • βœ“ No mortgage penalty
  • βœ“ Draw as needed, pay back anytime
  • βœ“ Interest-only payments available
  • βœ“ Best if existing mortgage is with a collateral-charge lender (RBC, TD, Scotia, Tangerine)

Trade-offs

  • – Rate is prime + 0.5 or higher (variable)
  • – Lender can demand repayment (rare, but possible)

Full refinance

Best when penalty pays back inside 12–18 months, OR your existing rate is above market anyway.

Pros

  • βœ“ Lock a new fixed rate on the whole balance
  • βœ“ Fold all debt into ONE payment
  • βœ“ Extend amortization to lower monthly
  • βœ“ B-lender bridge available if A-lender declines

Trade-offs

  • – Penalty on existing mortgage (IRD on fixed, 3-mo interest on variable)
  • – 4–6 weeks to close
  • – Full re-underwrite required

The Refi Payout Plan tells you which option nets more given your actual balance, penalty type (IRD vs 3-mo interest), and existing lender relationship.

Questions you probably have

Won't I just end up paying the debt off over 25 years?+

Only if you re-amortize it over 25 years β€” which is a bad idea. The plan we build always shows a "target payoff" schedule that matches or beats your current timeline, using the freed-up monthly cash to hit the balance harder. Turning $60k @ 22% into $60k @ 7.5% paid off in 5 years saves you ~$45k in interest over the payoff period.

What about the penalty on my existing mortgage?+

Two cases: β€’ Fixed with a monoline: IRD penalty can be brutal β€” sometimes $10k+ on a mid-rate file. Break-even math has to work. β€’ Variable OR fixed with a bank: penalty is typically 3 months' interest ($2–4k range). Almost always net positive. The plan spells out the exact break-even month either way.

What's the LTV limit for consolidation refis?+

Full refi in Canada: 80% loan-to-value. HELOC add-on: usually 65% combined LTV. If you're above 80% LTV and need equity, options tighten β€” B-lender programs go to 85%, private lenders to 75%.

Will consolidation hurt my credit score?+

Short term: a hard credit pull drops your score 5–15 points and it recovers in 3 months. Longer term: paying off revolving credit card balances (which the consolidation does) can BOOST your score 40–80 points by dropping your credit utilization. Net-net, consolidation is usually credit-positive within 6 months.

Can I consolidate if I'm self-employed?+

Yes β€” through B-lender programs that use bank statement / stated income. A-lender consolidations require T4 income or 2 years T1 general returns. If you're SE with strong cash flow but written-down net income, B-lender is the usual path.

What if my current mortgage is with the same bank as my credit cards?+

Doesn't matter. The bank's mortgage division and credit card division are underwritten separately. What matters is the mortgage lender's ability to lend on the new consolidated amount at 80% LTV β€” often the same bank will happily give you a bigger mortgage even while their CC division was refusing to lower your APR.

How is this different from a bank's debt consolidation loan?+

A bank unsecured consolidation loan is typically 9–14% and unsecured β€” better than 22% CC but far worse than 7.5% secured. The bank's "debt help" product exists because they don't want you to refinance the mortgage (they lose ancillary product revenue). Doing it through a broker with an actual mortgage instrument is almost always cheaper.

Your house is doing more work than you think.

Twenty-four hours from now you'll know exactly how much monthly cash flow you can pull back β€” with a plan you can show your accountant.

Show Me My Payout Plan β†’

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